on a ridge over Nechung...

Climbed to the peak of a finger coming off the main ridge over the Nechung Monastery. Stopped for a brief rest on the side of this giant incense burner. We kept going up... our destination being the peak of the main ridge!

Follow the flags...

Fish over Nechung

A nice shot of Drepung Monastery in the background. And, of course, Fish with the omnipresent prayer flags. On this day, as we had done several times before, we actually used the prayer flags as a guide to show us the best route up the ridge. Where there is no trail, trust the prayer flags. And if all else fails scrabble up the ridge on all fours. I did.

Hike over Nechung Monastery

After visiting Nechung, we decided to go for a hike up the ridge above, and then walk down the spine back to the main road where we would catch our bus. This turned out to be quite a hike, and much more challenging than either of us had expected. We caught some amazing views from way up there though. All of Lhasa valley, a great city view, and also great vistas of Drepung Monastery. We even made it past the stark raving mad ferocious Tibetan mastifs that wanted to eat us on our way down!! Auspicious? Or lucky?

Temple art at the Norbulingka

Painting inside an older temple at the Norbulingka. There was a ferocious wind storm raging though the valley this afternoon, dust and debris whipping through the air, giving our eyes a good sand blasting. We ducked in here for some relief.

The Norbulingka

This was a large park/garden that was the summer residence of all the Dalai Lamas, since his 7th incarnation. The present, 14th incarnation of the Dalai Lama built his residence here only 5 years before he fled Tibet. That is the building you see here. It was a very eery place to visit. The air was thick with emptiness and the space devoid of life. It was expressly forbidden to take photos inside the house, but team holler got a few shots for posterity. Enjoy the private bathroom of the Dalai Lama, as well as your exclusive look at his very bed...

Smoked Out!

Still in front of the Jokhang... There are four huge incense burners placed at the four corners of the Jokhang complex. This is one of the two placed in the front. On certain particularly auspicious mornings people would get these things rollin!! Thousands of people bring juniper boughs and the leaves of a type of local artemesia and literally pack these huge censers with plant matter... and then continue to do so all morning long. This was the smokiest we had seen it in the 7 weeks we spent in Tibet. And still folks were cramming juniper into the opening with no signs of slowing down! It was awesome to behold and not just a little difficult to breathe. But the smell is something I will never forget... literally permeated to the core...

Prostraters in front of the Jokhang

The Jokhang is considered the holiest temple in Tibet... often referred to as the spiritual heart of the culture. Because of this, from sunrise until well after dark the square before the temple is filled with pilgrims who have come from all over the country to prostrate and pray here. The mood is very sincere and holy, but there is no shortage of smiles and fun amongst Tibetan people!

Spinning the Wheels...

Every chance I got to spin a prayer wheel I was happy to take! If you are reading this, know that many wheels were spun in your honor! Hundreds in one session often-times! Lots of love keeps these wheels spinning...lots of love, and a WHOLE lotta yak grease that is...

More scenes from the Jokhang roof...

This spot on the roof looking down over the entrance to the Jokhang was a people watchers dream come true!! People all around have traveled to this spot to have the religious experience of a lifetime... all of us pilgrims in our own way.

Barkhor Square from the Jokhang roof

Barkhor Square

Making friends with some nice Monks. These guys called us over to have their picture taken... we were happy to oblige!
We are standing in front of the entrance to the Johkang.

New Years Eve with My Morning Jacket...ba ba bananas nanas!!

"Who could see and not believe, the heart that beats the wavelength?
Who could say but never do things they said to someone who
Thru all that's been and all will be, so in line so thoughtfully
In tune with you. So in time for me.
New thoughts arrive, so in time for me.

Who can count the time I'm beatin with my hands?
Who can stop this smoke from breathin in my head?
Words will come and words will go. Make believe and overthrow.
Just believe and you can do
You know my heart it beats for you. It beats for you.
So in time we beat. Your thoughts align, so in time with me"
**Just after midnight- Celebrate (Good Times) into All Night Long (Lionel Richie) into CARELESS WHISPERS (best cover EVER!!) into a- Prince- song- I -don't- know- the- name -of -but- they -shredded -the- hell- out -of -it -too!! The rest of the night was all MMJ original masterpieces.**
HAPPY 2007 YA'LL!!!

The Johkang

Photos from our second day at the Johkang. We visited on our second day in Lhasa, and again on our last day in Tibet. It was a very different experience the second time. Hundreds more people were waiting to enter the inner temple on this day then on our first day. So many people that we did not make it inside the inner temple on this day. The outside is amazing enough though, and the people watching here is unmatched in the world!

Singing Bowl Sista...

I talked with this woman for several days in a row. She had beautiful singing bowls for sale, and was very proud of the fact that they were made in Tibet, not China or Nepal. When I finally came to make my purchases she was very kind and invited us to sit with her awhile. She gifted us each with a sweet beaded bracelet and many blessings for our journey.

prayer flags galore

Shopped around for the best deal on prayer flags... these ladies had them all beat, and they were fun and friendly as well!

Kim and Dyki... girls night out!

From the first time I saw Dyki I was fascinated with her hair. Instead of dozens of little braids, she had her hair done in dozens of little twists. I could not figure out how she got the twists to stay in! After we became friends she offered to take me to her hair dresser to get MY hair twisted. So, on my last night in town,, I took her up on her offer. It was so fun! The ladies working on my hair were both Tibetan and were stoked to work on my hair. The whole process took almost 2 hours, in which time Dyki hung out with me in the shop and the 4 of us girls chatted and giggled... They washed my hair then put some kind of gel all through it. She took small pieces of hair, made the twist, and then ran the straightener down the length of the spiral. Crazy amounts of smoke were flowing up from my head each time she would use the straightener. Don't know if you can see the smoke in the photos. Guess it was because my hair was still wet. Anyway, the twists DID stay in... and lasted about 10 days, even in the humidity of Chiang Mai. I was stoked! I thought the twists were about the coolest hair-do I have ever seen. In fact, I don't think I have ever seen twists before. Lots of people with small braids, lots of people with dreads, but never twists. Oh, by the way, this 2 hour beauty treatment cost me 16 yuan... 2 dollars!!

"last night" in Lasa

After getting my hair twisted Dyki and I met up with Fish for some warm drinks and hanging out. Dyki was a wonderful person we were lucky enough to get to know in Lasa. A waitress at one of our favorite restaurants, we saw her every day, and she became a really good friend during our weeks in Tibet. She was intelligent, honest and lots of fun. She surprised us with silk scarves, in honor of our journey, and gifts for each of us. A necklace for Fish and a prayer wheel for me. We were so happy to have met Dyki and feel really blessed to know such a true and good person. We were sad to say goodbye.

Headed to Gongkar Airport...

On our way to catch a cab. We were sad to say goodbye to the girls at the Daxia Family Guesthouse. We had bonded with them, especially after their help with Fish's haircut incident (more on that later). We gave hugs all around and had said our fond farewells, when one of the girls asked us to wait a moment. She came back with two white silk scarves which she draped around our necks. White silk scarves are a tradition here in Tibet, and are given to people on auspicious occasions... departing/returning from a long journey being one such occasion. They are also given to show respect or honor and you see piles of them left at the feet of sacred images and draped thickly over revered objects, such as the thrones of past Dalai Lamas. It was a surprising and touching gesture. The people at the Daxia had become like family to us over the weeks. Little did we know we would be back in 2 hours! Argghhh!! China Eastern!!!

Scenes from the Barkor

On our "bonus" day in Lasa. We enjoyed a nice sunset with the other pilgrims in front of the Jokhang temple. We made it all the way to the airport that morning ( an hour away) only to be told that our flight had been cancelled and we had been moved to the same flight for the next morning. Hence... a "bonus" day in Lasa.